Restaurant Review: Bianchi Pizza and Pasta at Bahia Hotel in Mission Beach

Bianchi Pizza and Pasta
Bahia Hotel
998 West Mission Bay Drive
San Diego, CA 92109

By LK Bruce

As is often the case, there is good news and bad news. So it was when a foursome headed over to the Bahia Hotel to try out its relatively new restaurant, Bianchi Pizza and Pasta. (Not on the Peninsula but close enough for those who hate to leave “the Shire.”)

Located at the roadside/ front of the hotel, unlike the Bahia’s other restaurant, Dockside 1953 which is on the water, Bianchi is equal parts inside and outside with an enormous fireplace outside and enormous Neapolitan pizza oven inside. The vibe is casual,  comfortable and pretty. Given the Bahia owners’ passion for cars, the inside walls are adorned with posters of Bianchi autos and bicycles.

The menu doesn’t overwhelm. Offering six appetizers, four salads, six pasta dishes and nine pastas, you don’t need a half-hour to decide what to order.

A very cool special is the Italian Date Night on Wednesdays where you and your paramour can share a Caesar salad, 750ml of house wine – Line 39 Pinot Grigio or Cabernet Sauvignon – and one pizza for $44. That is a deal our friends were only too happy to seize.

Comprised of long leaves of fresh crunchy Romaine with dressing and Parmesan breadcrumbs, the tasty Caesar was a good size for one but deemed too small to share. Meanwhile my husband and I, in the name of research, skipped the Date Night special and ordered two other salads, both of which were outstanding and could easily have been shared.

Mine was the Panzanella “Bianchi” with croutons, cucumber, heirloom tomato, red onion, basil, olives, tomato vinaigrette, and “homemade tomato powder.” I would come here again just to eat this. My husband ordered the Burrata Caprese Bowl with lots of Campari tomatoes, a fat blob of burrata, oregano, balsamic vinegar and shaved Parmesan which was similarly gorgeous, plentiful and delicious.

Our friends ordered the Bianchi pizza with smoked mozzarella, prosciutto cotto, fennel sausage, Italian speck, and mushrooms and were happy with it. I ordered the  Quattro Stagioni pizza with crushed tomato, prosciutto cotto, mushroom, artichoke, mozzarella, olives, and basil. The pies were good sized and we were all able to take leftovers home.

Again the good news: the toppings were generous – a deal-breaker if they aren’t – but the bad news is the crust was wet and floppy. How is that possible, given the Neapolitan pizza oven and the prowess of the chef, Ignazio Tagliavia? Tagliavia is the one hotel owners snagged from Elvira (in the Shire) who theoretically knows his way around a Marra Forni Pizza Oven. Maybe there was an intern at the helm?

Mine arrived barely warm and limp. I asked that they put it back in the oven for warmth and a crisp bottom crust and they brought me a whole new one – not necessary – but it was blackened a little on top and again wet and floppy on the bottom.

My husband ordered the Penne Pomodoro and added two meatballs. The sauce was quite spicy and garlicky and the meatballs meager for the price. He wouldn’t order it again.

Like the main menu, the wine and drink list is simple but complete. Oddly, our friends’ liter of house Cab arrived ice cold. When we asked why the server said, somewhat irritated, it “came from the cask.” We still don’t get it. My husband and I ordered a Poggio red blend which proved perfectly fine and appropriately wine-cellar cool.

We decided, again in the name of research and a duty to Rag readers, to try a dessert. The server explained the tableside preparation of the signature Tiramisu, which sounded incredible. She warned us that it is especially caffeinated and we were grateful for the heads up. Instead we ordered the strawberry panna cotta with four spoons. Vanilla beans lent great flavor to the custard nestled in fresh strawberries and strawberry sauce. Four thumbs up. The Chocolate Torta with Amarena cherries and sweet vanilla cream sounded good, too.

Our friends faced a bill of $44 plus tax, tip and a “3% kitchen appreciation fee.” Ours? $100 more than theirs plus tax and tip. It’s unusual but cool to have this wide of a range of price options so many can enjoy at various price points.

Would we go back? Yes, for salad and dessert along with a nice glass of wine. Maybe that for lunch with girlfriends? I think yes.