Cocina De Barrio
3924 W Point Loma Blvd
San Diego, CA 92110
Cocina De Barrio
(619) 222-6600
By LK Bruce
Cocina De Barrio is one of those places you walk out of kicking yourself for not going there more often.
The menu is not your usual Mexican fare of tacos and burritos but rather focuses on authentic Oaxacan dishes which include not just corn, beans, and chili peppers, but a great variety of other ingredients and preparations based on Oaxaca’s varied geography and indigenous cultures. Chef Jose J. Flores has crafted a diverse, interesting and creative menu that pops with classic Oaxacan ingredients.
The difficult choices start with the appetizer menu; everything sounds so good. Imagine prickly pear and lime marinated striped bass ceviche, Mexican street corn with shrimp, sliced raw salmon with pickled strawberries or fresh guacamole and/or salsa made in a real molcajete, the traditional Mexican mortar and pestle made of volcanic basalt. And you’re just getting started.
Then comes the “Antojitos” part of the menu, referring to “little cravings” or Mexican street food. These include a number of items involving tortillas but in unexpected ways like taquitos with chorizo and potato in a classic red sauce or puffed blue corn tortilla with barbacoa, or even a traditional Oaxacan Tlayuda consisting of a large thin crunchy tortilla with refried beans, queso fresco, beef birria, and queso Oaxaca. The category also includes fan favorite tortilla soup.
If you still have room, you’ll move to the “Platillos Fuertes” or “strong dishes”/ entrée portion of your meal. Most recently, I had the Pescado Zarandeado for $29 which was a flounder filet with fresh salad greens, pickled onions and carrots piled high on top, masa dumplings, a yummy tomato aioli and a moist, dense corn cake. The fish was cooked to perfection, the flavors heavenly and the portions generous.
My husband had the Short Ribs En Mole Negro for $33. It consists of braised short ribs, traditional mole negro, chochoyotes (the masa dumplings), baby carrots, cilantro-lemon rice – the latter in the shape of a small pyramid, reflecting their eye for presentation. Though not listed on the menu, it came with nopales (chopped cactus). Somewhere were deadly red chili peppers lurking so keep your eyes peeled if you’re not an aficionado of heat. He loved his meal, devouring every bite and the presentation was as inviting as mine.
One of the best things about Cocina De Barrio is the attention to vegetarian menu items. At so many restaurants, vegetables and veggie people are an afterthought and
the concessions to such are perfunctory at best. Not here. You’re welcome with warm hugs in every single menu category. Do try the Coconut Aguachile with young coconut meat, avocado, red onion, cucumber, radishes, cilantro, spicy lime sauce. Avail yourself of the Tetelas which are two triangular masa envelopes with refried beans, cashew cheese and mole amarillo. And for heavens sake, whatever you do, do not miss the squash blossoms (Flor de Calabaza) or the Albondigas entrée.
Can’t eat it all? Make multiple trips!
The dessert menu consists of just two items, fresh churros and flan, neither of which we have tried but given the rest of this incredible fare, I suggest you give it a go and report back in the comments.
If you’re a cocktail person, you’re going to love the handcrafted offerings using mezcal and tequila. We’ve tried the La Paloma with tequila blanco, grapefruit juice, fresh lime juice, club soda, agave, with salt rim and they are as delicious as they are pretty. Their margaritas are excellent. Of course, they have many mezcals and tequilas for enjoyment all on their own as well.
If you’re a wine person you can rejoice there, too, with wonderful wines from the Guadalupe Valle about two hours south. If you’re over 21 going on five, you must tell us
whether La Tia Chata – complete with rumchata, vodka, horchata, creamer, lime, and yes, a coconut popsicle – is as good as it sounds. Beer people are covered, too, with interesting craft selections, five of which hail from Mexico and the others from San Diego. Other more familiar varieties are available in bottles and cans.
The restaurant itself gives off a hearthy warm vibe with many tables, both inside and out in the covered patio. The service staff is perhaps a bit too lean but what they lack in numbers they make up for in friendliness and pride in their cuisine.
Seriously, I don’t think you can go here too often. They’re located right at the corner of West Point Loma, Midway and Sports Arena near the I-8 entrance. You probably go past there all the time. Just remember to stop in and delight yourself.
Completely agree with LK Bruce, they have a fantastic breakfast as well.